What size needle should I use to embroider?
Embroidery Needle Sizes
Needle sizes are typically represented by a two-number system, such as 75/11. The first number is the metric size, which indicates the needle’s diameter in hundredths of a millimeter. The second number is the US (Singer) size. In both systems, a larger number indicates a thicker needle.
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For commercial embroidery, the choice of needle size is crucial and depends on the garment and thread weight.
Size 65/9: This is a very fine needle, ideal for delicate and lightweight fabrics like silk, chiffon, or fine lace. It’s excellent for small lettering and detailed designs. However, it can be prone to thread breaks and can be more difficult to thread.
Size 70/10: A popular, all-around needle that works well for lightweight woven fabrics such as cotton voile or organza. It provides a good balance for detailed work without the fragility of a smaller needle.
Size 75/11: This is the most common and versatile needle size for commercial embroidery. It is considered the industry standard for most projects, including general-purpose embroidery on fabrics like quilting cottons, satins, and twills.
Size 80/12: A slightly heavier needle, this size is a great choice for medium-weight fabrics like linen, denim, or thicker cottons. It is also often recommended for embroidering hats due to its strength.
Sharp vs. Ballpoint Needles
The needle’s point type is just as important as its size, as it determines how the needle interacts with the fabric.
Sharp Point Needles: These needles have a sharp tip that pierces through the fabric fibers. They are the best choice for tightly woven materials such as denim, canvas, broadcloth, and caps, as they create a clean hole without pushing the fibers aside.
Ballpoint Needles: These needles have a rounded tip that slides between the individual fibers of the fabric without piercing them. This prevents runs and snags, making them essential for knit fabrics like T-shirts, fleece, and other stretchy materials.
For an extensive selection of embroidery supplies, including needles in all the sizes and types mentioned, Superpunch is an excellent place to look.